Frequently asked questions
about clothes cleaning
When a garment's
label says "washable", does this mean it cannot be drycleaned?
Not necessarily.
The Care Label Rule states that only one suitable method of care must
be on the label.
Cleaners usually follow the care instructions, unless otherwise requested.
If you want your washable items
drycleaned, the cleaner may ask you to sign a damage waiver.
Does Frequent
drycleaning shorten the life of a garment?
On the contrary,
frequent cleaning prolongs the life of a garment. Not only do stains
set with age, making
the garment unwearable, but ground-in dirt and soil act as an abrasive,
like sandpaper, causing rapid wear
of fibers. Also, insects are attracted to soiled clothes and will
cause further damage.
How Can You
Help Your Clothes and Your Cleaner?
- Bring your
garments in for professional cleaning as soon as possible after
staining occurs. Stains or
soils left too long may become permanent.
- Discuss any
stains with our cleaning staff.
- Keep perfumes,
lotions, deodorants, antiperspirants, and other toiletries away
from your clothes.
These products likely contain alcohol which will damage some dyes.
- Protect garment,
especially those made of silk, from excessive perspiration, as this
can cause dyes
to discolor.
- Have matching
pieces of an ensemble cleaned together so any color fading will
be uniform.
- Protect your
garments from prolonged exposure to direct light.
- Don't press
stained or soiled clothing, as the heat may set some stains.
Basic
Cleaning Tips
If you spill something on a garment (i.e. ink, lipstick, etc.), do
not put any other items on the garment to
try to remove the original stain or "keep it from setting."
Doing this would create a garment with a dual
stain, thereby making the original stain harder to remove. The best
thing to do is to take the stained
garment to the cleaners as soon as possible and point out the stains
to the counter personnel.
Never spray cologne, perfume, or any items that contain
alcohol on garments. The alcohol will react to
the dry cleaning process and could possibly damage the color of the
garment.
When taking garments to the cleaner, please count
the number of garments you are dropping off and
we will be happy to make a note of the number of garments on your
claim ticket. As well, customers
are encouraged to check and count the number of garments when picking
up their order. This is to
ensure that you did receive all of your items, that you are happy
with the condition of your garments
before leaving the cleaners, and it saves you a trip to have an item
recleaned.
What is Dry-cleaning?
Professional garment care dates back to the days of Pompeii when early
cleaners were called "fullers".
They used lye and ammonia in early laundering and a type of clay called
"fuller's earth" to absorb soils
and greases from clothing too delicate for laundering.
While 1690 is the first published reference to the use of spirits
of turpentine for removing tar and varnish from fabrics, it wasn't
until 1716 that turpentine began to be used regularly as a "drycleaner"
for grease and oil stains to supplement wet-cleaning processes. Down
through the ages, turpentine, a distillation of pine pitch, has had
several names: oil of turpentine, spirits of turpentine, camphene,
and "turps".
Even before organic solvent was used to clean garments by immersion
methods, the cleaner of clothes was known as a "degrasseur",
a degreaser of textiles able to remove grease and fat stains from
cloth. The French name for cleaner was teinturier-degraisseur (a dyer-degreaser).
"Degraisseur" was the common term applied to a master dyer
who specialized in both dyeing and cleaning garments.
In the early 1900s, drycleaners began using spirits of turpentine,
called "camphene", as a dry-cleaning solvent. This discovery
quickly spread to other countries on the continent and later to the
British Isles, led by John Pullar and Sons in Perth, Scotland. The
new process became known as "French Cleaning", named for
the earlier reputation and fame gained in France. This term continues
to be used today signifying a special process requiring highly skilled
handwork.
The first use of dry-cleaning soap was in Germany. In 1928, Stoddard
solvent, which had a higher flash point than other solvents currently
being used, was introduced. In 1932, chlorinated hydrocarbons-nonflammable
synthetic solvents-were introduced in the United States.
Two types of solvents are currently used for dry-cleaning; perchlorethylene
(PREC) and petroleum. While both perform essentially the same function,
their structures and properties are different.
A solvent must meet certain criteria in order to be used for dry-cleaning.
For example, an acceptable dry-cleaning solvent must be free of objectionable
odors, and certainly must not leave residual odor in garments after
drying. In additional, the solvent should be able to be safely heated
to its boiling point for distillation purposes so that it may be continually
cleaned and recycled.
In order to be used for safe and effective dry-cleaning; a solvent
must have the capability to dissolve solvent-soluble substances. This
"solvent power" must fall in a range that will effectively
remove solvent-soluble soils (fats, oils and greases) without risking
any damage to common textile fibers and dyes.
Solvents that are appropriate for use in dry-cleaning perform a number
of functions. Dry-cleaning solvents dissolve solvent-soluble soils,
such as oils, waxes, and greases. They also act as a carrier for insoluble
soils. Solvents carry detergent, which in turn carries water to remove
water-soluble soils. Lastly, in combination with mechanical action,
solvents produce a flushing action on fabrics to aid in cleaning.
There are two types of dry-cleaning machines used in the industry
for cleaning with perchlorethylene (PERC) or petroleum. One type is
the dry-to-dry machine, in which the clothes are put in dry and come
out dry, ready to finish. The other type is the transfer unit, in
which the clothes are cleaned and extracted in one machine and dried
in another machine before finishing. There are various options to
choose from, such as filtration systems and model sizes. These options
apply to petroleum as well as PERC.
The actual cleaning process for dry-cleaning is similar to the washing
process. Clothes are separated by weight, finish, and color. Heavyweight
clothes are separated from lightweight clothes. Delicate clothes are
further separated and cleaned separately. Finally, light colors and
dark colors are cleaned separately. Clothes with spot are also separated
for spot cleaning.
The clothes are cleaned in machines that look like large, over-sized
front load washing machines. However, this machine requires cleaning
solvent, which is used over and over and continually cleaned during
the cleaning process by recycling the solvent through filters and
distillation.
With each load of clothes cleaned, some distillation takes place.
As the clothes are dried, the solvent vapors are passed over condensation
coils where the solvent is again returned to it's clear liquid form
and reused.
Finally, after the clothes are removed from the machine, they are
checked for spots and additional cleaning if necessary. The clothes
are steam finished and are ready to be returned to the customer.
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All about Shirt Laundering
Wear Life Expectancy
Determining how long a shirt should last is difficult due to the variances
in frequency of wear. However, industry experience shows that, on
average, shirts have a two-year wear life expectancy. The number of
launderings is a better measuring method. The average shirt should
have a wear life of 35 to 50 washings. This will fluctuate depending
on the amount of abrasion and strain placed on the shirt during wear,
the fiber content, the type of fabric, and the laundering procedure.
Shrinkage:
Most dress shirts are difficult to shrink. The manufacturer has already
allowed for the normal two percent and progressive shrinkage requirements.
This shrinkage is usually not enough to cause a complaint. Shrinkage
beyond this is usually due to poorly stabilized materials.
Shrinkage complaints can easily be resolved by measuring the collar
and sleeve length. Measure the collar from the end of the buttonhole
to the center of the button. Measure the sleeve length in a straight
line from the center of the back of the collar at the seam to the
end of the cuff. If these measurements correspond to the shirt size,
it has not shrunk.
Holes and Tears in Oxfords
Tiny holes can appear at random throughout an oxford shirt due to
the weaving process. These should not be confused with damage from
bleach. Oxford consists of two thin warp yarns to every soft, thicker
yarn in the filling direction. The unbalanced construction causes
the thin yarn to break, leaving tiny holes. Manufacturers could use
a higher twist in the yarn to retard the development of holes, but
eventually any oxford weave will develop tiny pinholes.
In addition, tears in oxfords occur in the direction of the softly
twisted, thicker yarns. All the yarns in an oxford receive the same
care process, but the constant abrasion in wear causes the think yarns
to weaken and tear.
Buttons
Buttons may crack during pressing even though the press padding is
in excellent condition and the procedures used are correct. The reason
for this is that there is an inherent problem in the button or the
way the button was applied to the shirt. The majority of shirt buttons
are made from a polyester resin. The strength of the button depends
on the amount of polyester in the resin; some imported buttons contain
less polyester.
Off-quality buttons are graded because they do not meet the requirements
in one or all of the following criteria: color, visual inclusions,
chips or cracks, and uniformity of size. Some manufactures use less
expensive, off-quality buttons to save money but this sometimes results
in higher than average breakage.
Perspiration and Antiperspirant Damage
Perspiration, if allowed to stay in the shirt, will eventually stain
and also weaken the fabric, allowing the weakened area to be damaged
during washing. Aluminum chlorides found in antiperspirants will also
weaken the fibers under the arm. Controlled use of antiperspirants
and frequent washings immediately after wear may minimize this type
of damage.
Fugitive Dyes
The Care Label Rule states that the color in a garment must withstand
the recommended care procedure. If the dyes in a multicolored shirt
are not colorfast to water, bleeding will occur. The dye will migrate
into adjacent areas during the washing process. This migration of
the dye into the surrounding areas is not acceptable.
Some dyes dissolve in water and are partially removed during laundering.
After the first laundering, the lightening of color may be apparent,
or it may be progressive and only noticeable after several care procedures.
Interfacing Defects Puckering and excess fabric in the shirt collar
after laundering is caused by shrinkage of the interfacing (within
the collar). If the shirt is laundered, and the interfacing shrinks
excessively, it will cause the puckering of the outer fabric. The
manufacturer must select an interfacing, which is compatible with
the shirt fabric.
Collars and cuffs will have a mottled gray or shiny look in specific
areas when excess adhesive is used to fuse the collar or cuff fabric
and the interfacing. This excess adhesive softens in pressing and
penetrates the outer fabric of the collar and cuffs. This can be prevented
by the correct selection of an adhesive by the manufacturer, which
is compatible to commercial laundering.
Yellowing occurs because some interfacings on shirts react adversely
with chlorine. Laundries often use other oxygen-type bleaches, which
do not react with chlorine retentive resins. If chlorine bleach is
used on this type of fabric, yellowing could occur.
Stains and Spills
Stains from medicines, strong acids, the acid residue of foodstuffs
and beverages, or liquid chlorine bleach, can easily damage a shirt.
Spillage of a strong household product causes localized fabric weakness
or color loss in the area of contact with the fabric. This type of
damage may not show up until after washing. This type of staining
is not unique to shirts.
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Stains, help with Spots
If spots and stains are promptly and properly treated they can be
treated without damage to the garment. Dry-cleaners have special equipment
and stain removers to remove most of the toughest stains.
However, if in an emergency, you can remove small, fresh stains from
your washable items by home methods. We offer this guide to help you
do so.
Remember:
• Always check first for colorfastness. Apply the recommended
stain remover to a hidden part of the fabric. Rinse out and let dry.
If there is no damage, then proceed.
• Read and follow all manufacturers instructions.
• If you're unsure, check with your drycleaner before proceeding.
1. Ball-point ink: Using cleaning fluid, place stain face
down on clean white paper towels. Apply cleaning fluid to back of
stain. Replace paper towels under the stain frequently. Dry thoroughly.
Heavy concentrations of this stain should be brought to your drycleaner.
2. Blood: Blot with cold water. Apply an enzyme detergent.
Rinse with water. If the stain is still present, apply household
ammonia. Rinse thoroughly with water.
3. Gum: Harden with an ice cube. Gently lift off any large
pieces. Do not scrape with sharp objects that may damage the fabric.
Wet with cleaning fluid over a clean white towel to remove final
traces.
4. Mildew: Fabrics, which are badly mildewed, may be damaged
beyond repair. If it is safe for the fabric, use chlorine bleach.
Rinse thoroughly. Rinse with a small amount of white cider vinegar
and another rinse and launder.
5. Nail Polish: Use colorless nail polish remover. Place
face down on clean white paper towels. Apply nail polish remover.
Replace power towels under stain frequently. Repeat until stain
in removed. Never use on acetate or triacetate fibers.
6. Coffee: Blot with cold water. If the stains not removed,
apply liquid synthetic detergent (from your kitchen sink). Rinse
with water. If stain persists, apply white vinegar. Rinse with water.
7. Rust: Use a fabric safe rust remover following manufacturer's
instructions carefully. Rinse rust remover completely out. Best
to take to a professional drycleaner for removal.
8. Lipstick: Using cleaning fluid, place stain face down
on clean white paper towels. Apply cleaning fluid to back of stain.
Replace paper towels frequently. Dry thoroughly. If stain is still
visible, use a synthetic detergent and water.
9. Chocolate: Blot with cold water. Apply an enzyme detergent.
Rinse with water. If the stain persists, apply household ammonia.
Rinse thoroughly.
10. Perspiration Stain: Use method shown for chocolate.
11. Scorch: Rinse out light scorch with cold water. For
heavier scorch, treat with 3% hydrogen peroxide after testing first
for color loss.
12. Wine and Other Alcoholic Beverages: When fresh, blot
these stains with cold water; even white wine and colorless drinks.
Heat can cause colorless stains to yellow even weeks later. Spot
with synthetic detergent and water. Rinse with water. If the stain
persists, spot with white vinegar. Rinse with water. Finally, try
chlorine bleach or organic bleach, if safe for fabric (test first
for color fastness).
Remember:
* Always check first for color fastness.
* Read and follow all manufacturers instructions
* If you're unsure, check with your drycleaner before proceeding
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About Silk and Rayon
Silk - the very word implies softness, elegance, and luxury. This
shiny fiber, produced by silkworms to form their cocoons, was discovered
in China more than 4,000 years ago. It has been prized ever since
for its many unique qualities.
Soft and fluid, rayon is a favorite of fashion designers. It gives
the look of silk at a fraction of the cost. Rayon is regenerated cellulose
material produced from a solution of a cellulose source (wood pulp,
cotton waste, etc.) The solution is forced through a spinneret and
subsequently regenerated to form the fiber. It was the first manmade
fiber produced.
Wash or Dry-clean?
Both silk and rayon fibers dry-clean very well. If the manufacturer
has not tested for appropriate care instructions, however, certain
dyes or finishes applied to the fibers may react adversely to dry-cleaning.
Washing may damage garments containing sizing and/or dyes that are
sensitive to water. Also, some rayon water-spot or stain readily upon
contact with any moisture. It is important that you follow the care
label on the garment.
"Washable" Silk and Rayon
Washable silk and rayon have become increasingly popular. It is assumed
that if a garment is labeled as "washable," the manufacturer
has tested the fabric accordingly. However, this is not always the
case. Some dyes on "washable" silk and rayon have actually
dissolved in water, causing considerable dye bleeding and transfer.
This is especially true on many darker colors; most pastels have a
greater degree of colorfastness. It is not advisable to wash dark-colored
garments with other items due to the possibilities of dye bleeding
and migration. Multicolored articles should be tested for colorfastness
before washing them.
It is important to keep the washing cycle very short, followed by
rapid rinsing and drying. Never soak these garments for extended periods
of time, as prolonged soaking will often cause dyes to bleed and migrate
even more.
If you follow the procedure suggested on the label and the appearance
of the item is permanently altered, return it to the retailer for
an adjustment.
Dry-cleaning is not advised for articles of this type. Tests have
shown that many of these dyes may be extremely sensitive to dry-cleaning
solvents. When consumers bring these washable garments to be dry-cleaned,
the dry-cleaner should clean them according to the instructions on
the care label. If those care instructions are not followed and problem
occurs, the retailer cannot be held responsible.
Sizing and Moisture Do Not Mix
One of the most frequent problems with silk and rayon is the tendency
of the sizing or finish applied by the manufacturer to discolor upon
contact with moisture. In some cases, just wearing the garment in
the rain can cause considerable shading. The moisture effects of water-soluble
food and beverage spillage, as well as perspiration, may also discolor
sizing. If the article is badly stained by moisture, and labeled as
"dry cleanable," it may be very difficult for a drycleaner
to correct this shading. A bad discoloration may necessitate a short
wet cleaning process. This should only be done with the consumer's
consent.
Color Fading
Occasionally, dyes on silk and rayon are not colorfast to the procedures
listed in the care instructions. Articles labeled as "dry cleanable"
will sometimes contain dyes that bleed extensively when dry-cleaned.
Deep colors may transfer onto lighter areas. The same is true for
some articles that are labeled a "washable".
Most stains are water-soluble and required special spotting techniques
using moisture that are not part of normal dry-cleaning. The degree
of stain removal will often be determined by the colorfastness of
the dye. Sometimes, a dye is initially disturbed by the moisture of
the staining substance and will not withstand the additional moisture
needed to remove the stain. The stain cannot be removed without serious
color failure.
Beverage Stains
Beverages such as soft drinks, wine, and mixed drinks contain sugars.
A spill may be colorless and disappear when it dries, but later the
sugar may cause yellow or brown stains, especially when exposed to
heat. Be sure to point out such stains so that the drycleaner can
use special pre-treatments on the stain prior to dry-cleaning. Sugar-based
beverage stains cannot always be completely removed, especially on
silk.
Chemical Damage
Some silk dyes bleed or change color when exposed to solutions containing
alcohol. Allow perfume, deodorant, and hair spray to dry before you
dress, and remove spills from alcoholic beverages as soon as possible.
Some dyes, especially blues, purples and greens on silk, are sensitive
to alkalies. Many facial soaps, shampoos, detergents, and even toothpastes
are alkaline enough to cause color loss or change. If this happens,
talk to your drycleaner promptly about possible restoration.
Many bright colors used on these fabrics can fade from exposure to
sunlight or artificial light. Some blue, purple and green dyes fade
exceptionally fast, especially on silk. Store garments in closets
away from any light, such as windows or electric lights that are left
on.
Never use chlorine bleach - it permanently damages silk.
Perspiration Problems
Perspiration contains salts that can damage fabrics, especially silk.
Perspiration is acidic and turns alkaline on exposure to the atmosphere.
This can cause the fabric to change color and may disintegrate and
weaken silk. Have perspiration stains removed as soon as possible
to avoid permanent staining. If you perspire heavily, consider wearing
underarm shields.
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Wedding Gown Heirlooming
Your wedding gown - you'll never own anything more beautiful, more
special, or more symbolic of the most precious day of your life.
Perhaps it's the gown your mother wore, and you want to make your
lifetime commitment in that same special dress. Or maybe you'll choose
a dress designed especially for a bride of today . . . fresh, modern,
luxurious. Whatever gown you choose; remember to protect it after
your wedding day with expert dry-cleaning and careful storage. Your
gown will always remind you of one of the most important events in
your life.
Some gowns have decorative lace and embroidered trim that may be
dyed with dyes that are not colorfast to cleaning. Some lace trims
will turn snow white in cleaning while the base fabric of the gown
will retain its ivory or off-white color.
Drycleaners find that some trim is glued on rather than sewn on.
The adhesive used may not withstand the dry-cleaning process causing
the trim to be loosened or completed removed from the garment. Sometimes
beads and other decorative trim are made of plastics that dissolve
in dry-cleaning solvents. Make every attempt to ensure your dress
is dry-cleanable so that you can preserve your investment for many
years. If in doubt about any of the cleaning characteristics of your
gown, discuss it with your drycleaner. Your drycleaner may have processed
a similar garment and could give you valuable advice on your expected
purchase of the gown.
Caring for Your Gown After the Wedding
Most brides want to preserve their dress as a keepsake, perhaps for
their own daughter to wear on another special day. Experts at the
International Fabricare Institute, the worldwide association of professional
drycleaners and launderers, recommend cleaning your dress before storage.
The dress may contain invisible stains caused by various foods and
beverages, as well as perspiration and body oils. These will later
appear as permanent yellow stains if not properly cared for in cleaning.
On a full length gown the hemline will likely be soiled. If the article
was worn in inclement weather, removal of the soil from the hem could
be very difficult.
Insects are attracted to food, beverage and perspiration stains.
Insects will actually feed on a stained garment and, while feeding
on the stain, eat part of the fabric. During a later cleaning, these
weakened yearns could actually fall out causing a hole. Point out
any stains or spills to your drycleaner. They will expertly remove
these stains if at all possible and clean and refreshen the entire
gown.
Some drycleaners will pack your wedding gown for you in a special
box that will aid in storage. This is a convenient way for the consumer
to not only store the garment but it offers some protection from dust,
dirt, insects and other contaminants in the air. These boxes are made
up of an inner paper box into which the gown is packed and carefully
stuffed with tissue paper. (White acid-free tissue paper is preferred.)
This lightweight paper box is then inserted in a loose plastic bag.
The garment is then placed in a sturdy cardboard container providing
compact garment storage. Ask your professional drycleaner if he has
these services. Unfortunately, no process or storage method yet known
can absolutely guarantee against possible yellowing or deterioration
of textile fibers during extended storage.
Even after your gown is carefully stored, inspect it again from time
to time. Stains that didn't show up at the time of cleaning could
appear later, and should be attended to at once. An occasional inspection
will assure you that your gown is not becoming damp or suffering from
heat exposure.
Your wedding gown is worth the attention you give to its selection
and care, both before and after the wedding.
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Color Failure
Since earliest time fabrics have been enhanced by the addition of
color. Colored fabrics are produced in several different ways. Some
fabrics are woven from dyed yarns, some fabrics are dyed after weaving,
and some fabrics are colored by printing the surface, often with several
different colors. Modern technology has brought great improvements
in color performance, but color failures may still occur from a variety
of causes.
Color Loss in Dry-cleaning
Some dyes are soluble in dry-cleaning solvent. This may result in
severe color fading if such an article is dry-cleaned. If two or more
dyes have been used and only one is solvent soluble, a dramatic color
change can occur. For example, the yellow component may be removed
and leave a green garment blue. The only clue of the former color
may be the thread, which was dyed by a different method.
The same color on two different garments may also be affected differently.
For example, you may buy a dress with a coordinated jacket in a blue
and white print. When they are dry-cleaned, the dress, which was vat
dyed, may be unaffected, while the blue print of the jacket may fade
so the blues no longer match.
Color failure is frequent in household items such as bedspreads and
draperies. Often the fading does not appear severe, but it can be
very noticeable when the item is compared with a matching item. For
this reason, matching bedspreads and draperies should all be cleaned
at the same time.
Water-soluble Dyes
Some dyes bleed when wet. This can occur in laundering or simply upon
exposure to perspiration, rain, or water spillage. Some stains require
water and water-soluble chemicals for removal, so even a dry-cleanable
item should have dyes with some resistance to water.
Sizing Disturbance
Fabrics often have sizing to give them body. Sometimes water spills
can cause sizing to migrate and form dark rings or streaks as it dries.
This can be a problem with rayon, which is often heavily sized. Sizing
can also become lightened on exposure to water. These discolorations
are difficult to remedy on dry-cleanable fabrics because they require
additional water to remove the sizing buildup, and this may aggravate
the problem.
Crocking
Crocking is the rubbing off of color from the fabric surface. Crocking
may occur from wear alone, along edges of hems and creases. Crocking
can also occur in washing or dry-cleaning. This phenomenon is expected
in some garments, such as denims, but the technology exists to produce
deep colors that do not streak or fade.
Fading From Light Exposure
Eventually most dyes fade on exposure to light, especially sunlight.
But sometimes color failure occurs rapidly on exposed areas such as
shoulders, collars, and sleeves. Usually sunlight is the cause, but
artificial light can also cause fading. Many blue, green, and lavender
dyes are particularly light sensitive, especially on silk and wool
fabrics.
Chemical Damage
Many common substances found in any household can cause chemical changes
to dyes. Exposure to perspiration or to alkaline substances, which
are present in many toiletries, can cause color change. Dyes used
on silk can fade on exposure to alcohol. Even acid from lemon juice
can cause bleaching on some dyes. And spillage of chlorine bleach
is a very common cause of color loss and even fabric damage.
Fume Fading Fume fading is the result of a chemical change in the
dyestuff. Acid gases that form in the atmosphere as a product of combustion
react with some dyes to cause a gradual color change. This type of
change can occur even while a garment is stored in your closet. It
is usually not uniform, but is more noticeable on exposed areas such
as shoulders and sleeves. Sometimes this type of color change may
not be noticed until after washing or dry-cleaning, but these immersion
processes cannot cause this localized type of change. Fume fading
is most common on acetates.
Whites White is actually a color, too. In their natural state, many
fabrics have an off-white or yellowish cast and are therefore often
bleached to remove this natural color. In addition, many white fabrics
are treated with whiteners during manufacture. These optical brighteners,
also called florescent whitening agents, change the reflective quality
of the fabric to make it appear whiter and brighter.
Different brighteners are used with different types of fabric. Some
of these agents are unstable and may break down and lose their whitening
power, so that the fabric reverts to a yellowish or grayish appearance.
Some fabrics may take on a pinkish or greenish blue. When a fluorescent
brightener breaks down due to light exposure, the unexposed areas
will be unaffected. For example, the front of a sweater laid out to
dry in the sun may turn yellow while the back remains white. Brighteners
are especially sensitive to light exposure when garments are wet.
This is why some care labels specify drying out of direct sunlight.
Another cause of yellowing of white may be resins added to impart
a permanent press quality. These resins can yellow when they are exposed
to chlorine bleach. In this case, the yellowing will be uniform. It
can be avoided by following the care label and using only non-chlorine
bleach when this is specified.
Some white fabrics lose their whiteness just from normal again, oxidation,
and exposure to atmospheric soils. This process can be reversed in
some fabrics by careful wet cleaning and bleaching, but often yellowing
is not reversible. Drycleaners sometimes add a fluorescent brightener
to their dry-cleaning procedure, and many laundry detergents include
brighteners, but severe cases of yellowing cannot be corrected in
this manner.
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